The brand was launched in 1995 by Roger Dubuis! Roger Dubuis was born in 1938 in Corbeyrier, the Swiss canton of Vaud. He started his watchmaking profession at Longines in the 1950s then went to the high complications workshops at Patek Philippe, where he remained for 14 years. In the 1980s, he set up his clock repair shop in Geneva. He was also repairing most of the watch-related stuff, which added to his experience.
Mr. Dubuis worked with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, the well-known movement designer in the late 1980s. Both of them were working on the Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Watch commissioned by Harry Winston. Roger did his schooling at Patek Philippe. This was the era where most of the work was manual. There were no automated systems like what we have today. He developed some high-quality Pateks, which we can find in auctions.
Carlos Dias, an entrepreneur and watch designer, met with Mr. Dubuis during this period. By 1995, he had encouraged Mr. Dubuis to establish the Société Genevoise des Montres, later renamed Manufacture Roger Dubuis.
Roger left the brand in 2005 and returned in late 2011. Sadly, Roger is no longer with us. He died in 2017.
Roger Dubuis is now 100% owned by the Richemont group. Here are the few design elements you should know about this watch.
From the front, the case is excellent. It has the same quantity of similarly shaped cutouts on the bezel. All of the textures and surfaces appear to be in the right places. The reasonable effort from BBR!
On the back, there's a minor difference. The rep is thicker. Therefore the area on the gen is covering the location of the RD logo. Not an offer breaker, its the back of the watch after all. Sizing is 42mm x 11mm, super wearable, and comfy.
The dial focuses on the five-pointed star skeletonized style. As you most likely guessed by now, It has a lovely surface over the structure.
The keyless cover plate is slightly less refined. However, you get what you pay for! It is not a cover on the gen; the part has a plate to cover the less sexy representative parts. The Cote de Geneve logo on the right is also a more prominent touch on the rep.
Hard to see, but the skeletonized framework on the rep has an extruded profile, believed to have joined from front to back, whereas, in places, the gen has two separate plates not collaborated.
Poincon de Geneve text is around the tourbillon. It is present on the 45mm gen, however, not in this smaller version. There is also one additional screw on the tourbillon cage on the gen where the hairspring is attached to.
Overall, including a cute little chamfer around the entire framework, it would be as good as you could wish for. The hands are terrific, right to the 42mm with the cutout, consisting of a very eye capturing half sleek half brushed surface. Again you might search more about this watch. It could just be what can be seen from the 45mm gen. Nonetheless, it looks cool.
Most of us should have excellent knowledge to know and examine, which movement is used in this watch. It's an Asian tourbillon, that's all I've got for you, sorry!
As pointed out before, the keyless component is different. There are two gold pieces of equipment in between 9 and 12. These, of course, represent an hour and minutes hand.
The winding mechanism on the part connected inside is on top of the star shape, as opposed to inside of it. Most of this mechanism is due to its bigger diameter wheels.
Strap and clasp
It is the best representative leather in the market. Super soft, it has a great length. There's not a lot to a fault. It's not very hard, and that's the reason you can use it for a couple of years without replacing it.
Here are the few Roger Dubuis custom watches to look out for